All we know is that we have 100kms of paved road from Georgetown to Linden and then 350 kms of dirt in unknown conditions through some of the most remote and dense jungles in the world. Plus, a ferry crossing that runs hourly but quits at 6pm, so the race was on.
The first 100 kms took us south of the capital through some thick and unspoiled jungle following the Demerara River. A nice morning ride to get the blood flowing in preparation for what was coming.
Linden is a nice town in the middle of Guyana with a nice one-lane toll wooden bridge and quaint houses around the water. We stoped for gas where the dirt began and ... the dirt road into the deep jungle began.
This was without a doubt the most challenging road of the whole trip … big pot holes, sand everywhere, mud, silt, even your typical Amazon on and off rain that would make things worse for a while.
Had my second flat tire of the trip … went through a couple of remote immigration checkpoints … met some Venezuelans packed in a pick up truck going the other way ... and enjoyed the remoteness of it all.
At Mabura Junction and after 3 hours of dodging all kinds of things ... and trying to keep the motorcycle upright through all types of slippery terrain while standing up on the motorcycle the whole time, I figured there was no way we could make our destination before night time.
So, before making decision of whether to stay there or keep going, I had something to eat ... some weird looking soup with everything in it … small pieces of animals of all sorts … some vegetables … on a thick broth. I needed the fuel.
With new energy, I talked to a driver that was heading south about road conditions and he said they were a bit better but still at least 3 hours to the ferry. So I decided to go for it.
What an experience! Riding through a remote jungle by myself, knowing that if something went wrong in the emptiness of this hot humid jungle would be a real problem, created a heightened sense of awareness to everything around you.
Every potential hazard or every time the motorcycle was unsettled or sliding sideways was a critical event that needed to be controlled. No room for errors.
After 2 hours, made the 4pm Kurukukari ferry as it was leaving the shore … the universe was looking after me. No injuries, no motorcycle issues, and on the ferry but still 2 more hours of challenging dirt to go.
The crossing of the Essequibo River was wild. There was a strong current and rapids on one side as the boat struggled against the current to make the landing on the other side.
The road after the ferry was nicely graded with the occasional challenge but much easier to ride. Got to Guyana's southern savannah where our lodge for the night was as it was getting dark. A unique sunset against the mountains.
What a day! Not one fall. And a long sequence of lucky events that worked.
Days like this is what makes motorcycle riding such an intense experience that brings incredible joy ... going places that are seldom seen by other people ... reaching the point where the machine becomes an integral part and an extension of your body ... achieving complete concentration on the task at hand, the nature around you, the sky, the trees, the rivers, the rain ... making critical decisions every second ... feeling the tense moments when traversing a sand pit or not knowing if you will get through an approaching obstacle … how can this not be special?
Because of the remoteness of this jungle, got to see a capybaras, birds, monkeys.
Our lodge was a sight for sore eyes. In the middle of the savanah, built by an Englishman and his Guyanan wife 30 years ago. It felt like a lodge in Africa, without the big animals roaming around. We had a proper sit down dinner at a long table with tablecloth and silverware. The food was outstanding.
My body and mind are so tired that I went to bed right after.
After 2 hours, made the 4pm Kurukukari ferry as it was leaving the shore … the universe was looking after me. No injuries, no motorcycle issues, and on the ferry but still 2 more hours of challenging dirt to go.
The crossing of the Essequibo River was wild. There was a strong current and rapids on one side as the boat struggled against the current to make the landing on the other side.
The road after the ferry was nicely graded with the occasional challenge but much easier to ride. Got to Guyana's southern savannah where our lodge for the night was as it was getting dark. A unique sunset against the mountains.
What a day! Not one fall. And a long sequence of lucky events that worked.
Days like this is what makes motorcycle riding such an intense experience that brings incredible joy ... going places that are seldom seen by other people ... reaching the point where the machine becomes an integral part and an extension of your body ... achieving complete concentration on the task at hand, the nature around you, the sky, the trees, the rivers, the rain ... making critical decisions every second ... feeling the tense moments when traversing a sand pit or not knowing if you will get through an approaching obstacle … how can this not be special?
Because of the remoteness of this jungle, got to see a capybaras, birds, monkeys.
Our lodge was a sight for sore eyes. In the middle of the savanah, built by an Englishman and his Guyanan wife 30 years ago. It felt like a lodge in Africa, without the big animals roaming around. We had a proper sit down dinner at a long table with tablecloth and silverware. The food was outstanding.
My body and mind are so tired that I went to bed right after.
As of this writing, only Chuck and I made it to the lodge. We found out that the rest of the group did not make the ferry on time for the last departure and will be spending the night at the river.
Our first immigration checkpoint close to Linden
Got a flat tire only a few kilometers into the dirt road
The hard to get to Mabura Junction ... a true outpost in the middle of nowhere
Getting gas at Mabura Junction from somebody's garage
The ferry crossing
Barely made it to the boat ... with a dirty face ... only one motorcycle and one van
Maneuvering the boat to avoid the rapids down river
Some of the roads we had to go through ... very slippery
Mud everywhere
This road is getting really narrow and the jungle is closing in
Finally the southern Guyana savannah
Beautiful cloud formations as the sun sets
The table Colin (the lodge owner) set up for dinner for our group ...
Unfortunately, Chuck and I were the only ones that made it to the lodge tonight
No comments:
Post a Comment