Sunday, September 18, 2022

Day 41 - A Century of Hell

Today we visited the infamous "Camp de la Transportation" where all the newly arrived prisoners from France were received, processed, and, most, sent to a number of other camps and prisons, including Devil's Island.

Napoleon III created the prison system here in Guiana in 1852 and, finally in 1946, the whole penal system was abolished. 100 years of hell!  

At the end, 80,000 prisoners were sent to Guiana over those 100 years. 50-80% of those arriving died within the first year. It is said that only a few finished their sentences and only a handful ever returned to France.

After hearing from our guide the things that happened here, it is hard to understand how people's humanity and decency can be quickly forgotten when given undue power over fellow men. The torture, hunger, disease, thirst, exhaustion, abuse, and death that went on here is unfathomable.  Another Auschwitz. Why do these things happen?

After the somber morning, we went to explore the town, had a nice lunch, and hired a boat to visit the shores of the Maroni River both in Suriname and in Guiana.  Very interesting contrast when considering that one is part of the European Union and the other the smallest independent country on South America.  

In Suriname, families were swimming in the river and having picnics in a more rural environment. Lots of manglars and thick jungle.  On the Guiana side, more infrastructure (water tower, concrete buildings, piers ... and a very nice small ferry with a European Flag waiting for us to board tomorrow morning.)

We went back to La Goelette for dinner to enjoy their amazing food ... we even had Tiramisus!

On the way back to our hotel, we stopped to get gas to be ready for the early departure tomorrow morning and met Stephane, a real world Shaman originally from Paris but with Indian/Buddhist roots.  Amazing how when you least expect it you meet somebody that through conversation moves your worldview a little bit.

Tomorrow, we head to Suriname and to Paramaribo, its capital, on the first boat out.

Colorful long boats plowing the waters between Saint-Laurent and Suriname

The beach and more boats

Old refrigerators being used to store fish from the river

The abandoned house were the head of the prison lived

The jungle reclaiming its territory

Riding around the prison walls

Waiting for our guide at the prison 

The infamous "Transportation Camp" where all new prisoners arriving from France were processed

Remains of dark dark past

Torture concrete beds

One of many eerie and sad parts of the prison

Written on the floor of a solitary confinement cell by a prisoner - "Adieu Mama"

Death row

The famous Papillon write his name on his cells floor before being sent to Devil's Island

Our midday lunch by the waterfront

On our way on a long boat to explore the Suriname side of the river - the baby was 4 months old

Our first close up of Suriname

Lots of sunken boats that are turned into islands with trees and all

On the way back to Guiana

Stephane, a real world Shaman and motorcycle rider from Paris

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